Anchoring beneath the spray of a crashing waterfall, we set off in a shallow draft tender to explore upriver. Wrapped in layers of waterproofs, we navigated upriver, witnessing zombie salmon drifting down with the current, their life cycle complete. Seals surfaced to peer curiously at us before darting away just as quickly. High above, bald eagles perched on the branches of ancient trees like silent sentinels.
So focussed on the water below and trees above, we almost missed a mother bear with her teenage cub resting at the water’s edge. Silently, we drifted closer, watching her snuffle along the forest fringes, before disappearing into the dense thicket, her cub ambling behind. Later, a massive male grizzly emerged from another tributary. Our tender fell into hushed stillness as he rose tall against a tree, nonchalantly using it as a scratching post, his casual movements both powerful and amusing. Satisfied, he plonked down, using a burly paw to scratch behind his ear. Finally, he snacked on a drifting zombie salmon before swimming across the river and vanishing into the forest.